.STL file: Denner copy bass oboe (A=440Hz)

Note: you are only buying the digital STL files necessary to print the instrument shown. This should be considered an advanced level print for someone with years of prior printing experience and ideally some instrument building experience. Supports are not modeled in. The keys and bocal will need supports to print properly. Minimum Z height: 200mm. File is NOT transferable nor does the purchase of this file give any rights to manufacture this instrument for resale.

One of my most ambitious 3D printing projects. I managed to get my hands on a set of blueprints from the museum where the original is housed. I’ve done a number of modifications to improve the intonation and response of the design, including tune it to 440Hz. You will receive the files for the bell, upper joint, lower joint, both keys and a bocal (though I would recommend getting one made if possible, it is the same size as a Heckelphone bocal). I normally use a bassoon reed as they are very close to Baroque bass oboe reeds. In addition to the printed parts, you will need the following parts and tools:

• Cotton thread and paraffin wax for tenons

• 2mm stainless steel rod

• Springs, 0.4mm wire diameter, 4.5mm outer diameter (These can be salvaged from certain pens or you can order 100 for under $10)

• 3/16” thin walled seamless brass tubing (This is used for the bocal, cut a small piece and epoxy it into the tip of the printed bocal. Make sure it is long enough to accept a bassoon reed. Round the end with a file or sandpaper. available at many home improvement stores near the fasteners in the “Hobby” drawer)

• 1/16” Finishing nails (for pinning body together. Other instruments often use pieces of filament, this will work in a pinch but the joint will not be very strong.

• Wire cutters (for springs)

• Hack saw and grinder or carbide/diamond file (for rods)

• Cyanoacrylate

Assembly tips:

• Clean up pin holes with a 1/16” drill bit, use a deburring tool and file to remove elephant’s foot for best results.

• Flatten mating surfaces prior to gluing/fusing.

• I normally use superglue for joints, but if this proves too difficult try one of the many PLA fusing products (always use a respirator!)

• When connecting 2 pieces, I use a rubber mallet to gently tap them together

• Use a 2mm drill if needed to clean up the rod holes in the keys, but the rod holes in the body should be fairly tight.

• Use lots of walls and top/bottom layers, you may need to use some cyanoacrylate on the tops and bottoms of tone holes to get a good seal.